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The mysterious Palazzo Donna Anna in Naples

Michelle September 7, 2015 Uncategorized No Comments

Rising from the sea in Posillipo, there is an impressive palace of tuff with an intriguing history. Even today, the small, glassless windows of the palace seem to scan the city like so many mysterious eyes.

A few years ago, I was lucky enough to have access to the beach below the palace. Via the internal stairs of the building, I went into a cave used to repair boats that has direct access to the sea. Here, I was told the whole story of this building, including the fascinating tales and legends associated with the place.

He described everything with such passion and detail, colours and sounds, that I thought I saw the protagonists of those stories all around me. While I cannot remember his exact words, I will try to tell you briefly about the history and legends of the mysterious Palazzo Donna Anna and convey the emotions I experienced.

It was built in the late fifteenth century on an old building called La Serena, owned by Dragonetto Bonifacio, appointed by Emperor Charles Marquis. Subsequently, in 1571, it became the property of Ravaschieri, who then sold it for 800 ducats to Prince Luigi Carafa di Stigliano, grandfather of the famous Donna Anna Carafa. At that time Donna Anna Carafa was considered “the first gift of Europe” for its fabulous richness. The palace was rebuilt in 1642 by the architect Cosimo Fanzago and was named Palazzo Donna Anna after the princess who, at that time, had become the wife of the viceroy Ramiro Nunez de Guzman, Duke of Medina de las Torres.

In popular belief, Donna Anna is often confused with the famous and much-discussed Queen Joan of Anjou. It was said that the queen had many lovers, and she would take her pick from the many fishermen in the area, with whom she spent nights of passion in the secret chambers of the palace. At the break of dawn, she would kill them and dispose of their bodies by throwing them from the windows. According to popular belief, the souls of these unfortunate young men roam, still, in the basement of the old house.

Some people swear to have seen them appear at those dark windows and emit heart-rending wails. Others, however, say that the queen would dispose of her temporary lovers from a rowboat entry point overlooking the sea, which can be seen from the beach and is still used by tenants for access to boats.

According to the legend told by the writer Matilde Serao, Donna Anna Carafa, wife of the Duke of Medina Coeli, loved to organize magnificent receptions which were attended by the Spanish and Neapolitan nobility. During one of those parties, the palace of lights shone brighter than ever. There was a bustle of servants and butlers who were preparing to moor the boats of the guests, while the rich, powerful and feared Donna Anna scornfully and proudly welcomed her guests, wearing a red dress adorned with silver.

That night, a theatre had been set up in one of the palace’s halls for the performance of a play. According to the French fashion of the time, the actors were all members of nobility. Among them was the beautiful young Mercedes de las Torres, granddaughter of the duchess. She played the part of a slave in love with her boss, who was played by Gaetano of Casapesenna.

The two acted with such passion that in the final scene of the kiss, everyone applauded with enthusiasm – that is, everyone except Donna Anna, who was overcome by jealousy at seeing her lover passionately kissing the young Mercedes. In the following days, the two women clashed violently, and then Mercedes disappeared mysteriously and suddenly.

Rumours spread that she had taken refuge in a convent after experiencing a sudden call to religion. The unfortunate Gaetano tirelessly searched for her in Italy, France, Spain and Hungary; he begged, pleaded and cried all the tears that he had, until he died in battle. The jealousy of Donna Anna had poisoned his soul and the bitterness never left him until the end of his days.

According to legend, the ghost of cruel Donna Anna appears in the palace from time to time, as well as the ghosts of the two star-crossed lovers, Mercedes and Gaetano, who remain forever desperate to find each other again.

I hope this short story may have piqued your interest, so that when you will have opportunity to go and see the palace, your fancy will illuminate its windows once more and revive its protagonists in your imagination.

Milan was once a city of water like Venice and Amsterdam

Michelle September 1, 2015 Uncategorized No Comments

Milan is a city of waterways which have been conquered and lost.

When Milan had its waterways, it was possible to go boating to Venice via Pavia.

Read on to find out how all of this was hidden underground, with just a few impoverished traces remaining. To this day, some of the underground mysteries of Milan still remain unsolved.

A different city

The ancient Insubri people had carefully chosen the location where they would originate Medhelan (or Medhelanion) in the fourth century BC, a new city of water and fortresses which would eventually become Milan.

The location was chosen so well that when the barbarians of Northern Europe flocked to the side of the Alps after cutting down the last rampart, they discovered that the Insubri were occupying some of the most fertile plains in the world, full of food and extraordinary water currents.

Milan stood “in the midst, in many waters”, and the name Mediolanum (as the Romans called it) indicated its intermediate position between the streams.

There are only few impoverished and almost squalid traces left of the ancient glory of Milan’s canals, major waterways that made it possible to sail through the city and directly connected it to the Adriatic Sea through the river port of Pavia.

In Milan, there were also a port and a dock, whose ultimate legacy is still visible in the form of Porta Ticinese.

In modern times, the dock is always dry and covered with waste of all kinds.

Yet it is not hard to imagine it with the boats moored, despite it being perpetually shrouded in a fog of traffic and smog.

In fact, it is easier to imagine the boats there during foggy weather, when the boundaries are fading and there is a strong atmosphere of a city that is no more.

This city has not been destroyed: in reality, the canals are now underground.

The ships are gone, except for on the large canal that springs from the dock of Porta Ticinese.

The boats would arrive in the city of canals transporting coal, timber, marble (used in the construction of the cathedral, among other buildings), hay and even cattle, and would leave carrying local wine, wheat, salt and handicrafts.

In 1929, the ring of canals allowed goods to be delivered directly to the very centre of Milan.

The streets that run parallel to the channels (the towpaths) made it easier to transport the barges that were pulled from the ground, as in the time of Roman ships on the Po.

Then there were the passenger boats, later used as delivery boats, carrying people from Pavia and any other location where there was a channel connected.

And do not forget that before the loss of the waterways, all the Milanese were excellent fishermen!

Intended to reduce the heavy traffic which made the medieval streets clumsy and slow, and required them to undergo constant repairs, the ships have paradoxically influenced the development and planning of a modern city that does not even have a river.

One can still understand the reasoning behind hydraulic locks, equipped so that the boats could enter or leave on different water levels.

A lock working to raise or lower the boats was not a rarity in Milan, even on the eve of the First World War.

However, through a process of urban decay which touched every Italian city, and the preference of the road as a means of faster transportation, they gradually disappeared from the canal’s metropolitan landscape.

Many people would welcome their reintroduction, but the decision to do so would be based more on nostalgia than functionality.

The channels, however, could provide a viable alternative to roads, as is the case in other urban industrial cities of North Europe (for example, in Amsterdam).

Not to mention the increased efficiency in the transport of goods: a one-horsepower ship can carry up to four tons of materials, whereas one equivalent terrestrial vehicle can only transport 150 kg.

It would perhaps be impossible to recover the entire waterway network, as it is now covered by streets and buildings; however, the project could have significant advantages also in terms of tourism, alongside the practical benefits.

With some changes, Milan could regain its image as a magical city of water. Even today, Milan retains that special and unique quality, justifying the feelings of profound nostalgia which pervade the city.

Even the springs of Milan are no more. These ancient pools of water were an outward manifestation of groundwater, which fed into the so-called “rotten” lakes.

These springs are recoverable and could be useful to help preserve the last remnants of urban biodiversity in the city – for example, they could accommodate Italian amphibians which are believed to be on the brink of extinction.

In Milan’s water meadows, the groundwater was close to the surface and maintained temperatures that were consistently above 10 degrees Celsius, allowing plants to grow even in winter.

Those meadows, mentioned by Adriano Celentano in his song “The Boy From Gluck Street” “Il Ragazzo della via Gluck”, were the last remnants of a town which was once green and furrowed by waterways.

The Great Canal was opened in 1269 and could be navigated by boats weighing up to 500 tons.

It was the main artery of the great waterway network of Milan, which often flowed to the covered brick vaults.

If you walk past Ripa di Porta Ticinese and Via Sforza, it is not hard to imagine the area dotted with shops and taverns, standing next to the bustling canals.

But to really go back to those days, we have to go underneath the city: a part of the waterway network remains viable beneath the city streets, at least where they has been reused as part of the sewer system (you have to bear in mind that, at the time, the waterways rivalled the sewers when it came to problems of hygiene and odour).

The channels also had a defensive function, but they were used for another purpose which was less noble.

In the mid-nineteenth century, smuggling in Milan seemed to have been eradicated, but customs officers wondered how it was possible that the traffic volume on the canals remained unchanged, and their duties did not increase.

Thanks to a tip-off, according to Ippolito Ferraio and Gianluca Padovan, the authors of the book “Milan Underground”, the city’s tax collectors slipped under a large stone slab one night in July 1868 and discovered the smugglers, who had continued to use the ships underground, loading them up with items such as meat, alcohol, and poultry.

The rope used to drag the secret boat was found by the side of the channel.

Ideas to enjoy Rome on a small budget

Michelle August 25, 2015 Uncategorized No Comments

Rome is known for its exclusive fashion houses, expensive restaurants and opulent hotels, but it is also rich in historic and cultural attractions, monuments and churches that cost nothing for visitors to enjoy. When you pay a visit to the Eternal City, you won’t have to search far to find free things to see and do.

Attractions

The Pantheon was constructed between the years of AD 118 and 125, and was originally used as a temple paying worship to Roman deities. In 609, it was changed into a Roman Catholic church. The impressive structure inspired Filippo Brunelleschi in his design for the famous cupola of the Duomo in Florence. The most distinctive feature of the Pantheon is its oculus, which is an aperture at the peak of the dome, allowing natural light to flood in. Many prominent Italians are buried here, including the artist Raphael and several kings. Admission to the Pantheon is free, or you can choose to take a tour with a guide for a fee of around $12. Mass takes place here on Saturdays at 5pm, and at 10.30am on public holidays. If you want to learn more about the building without spending the money for a tour, you could download the Pantheon iVIEW app on your iPhone or iPad.

Another impressive Roman structure is the Arco di Constantino, which was constructed in AD 315. It is the largest arch in the city, at around 65 feet in height, and was built as a commemoration of Emperor Constantine’s victory over Maxentius. As a result of this triumph, he allowed Christians to practice their religion throughout the Roman Empire. The enormous arch can be found close to the Colosseum.

Il Vittoriano is a memorial for the first monarch of unified Italy, Victor Emmanuel II. He is depicted on horseback in statue form, overlooking the monument, which locals refer to as “the wedding cake”. The imposing white marble monument looms over Piazza Venezia, and houses the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, a gallery and a museum focusing on the history of Italian unification.

La Bocca della Verità is an interesting attraction; the name means “mouth of truth”, and it is a sculpture of a monstrous face with wild eyes and a wide-open mouth, located on the front of the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin. According to legend, if you tell a lie with your hand in its mouth, you will leave with a stump. The sculpture featured in a famous scene with Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck in the classic movie Roman Holiday.

If you’re up for a challenge, try walking up the Spanish Steps, Europe’s widest and longest staircase. They were originally conceived by the French, but became known by their current name after the Spanish Embassy relocated to the square. Extending from the Trinita dei Monti Church to the Piazza di Spagna, the steps are a popular gathering spot for tourists, students, shoppers and portrait artists.

St. Peter’s Basilica is a stunning example of art and architecture, and is also the centrepiece of the Catholic Church. The baldacchino (an intricate sculpted bronze canopy over the Basilica’s high altar, where the pope celebrates Mass) and the external colonnade are the designs of prominent baroque sculptor Gian Lorenzo Bernini. The Basilica houses Michelangelo’s masterpiece, the statue of the Pietà, which is currently behind glass after suffering a hammer attack. There is also a bronze sculpture of St. Peter, and visitors traditionally rub his foot for luck when they pass by. It is free to enter the main floor of St. Peter’s, but it costs around $9 to ascend the Michelangelo-designed dome. Be prepared to queue; the crowds tend to be slightly smaller after 2pm on Tuesdays and Thursdays, so this could be a good time to visit.

San Clemente is a unique church located on Via San Giovanni. It is, in fact, three churches in one structure. The bottom level contains Rome’s best-preserved mithraeum, an ancient place of worship and one of twelve such sites discovered in the city. Above this level, there is the earliest version of a church as a site of Christian worship, containing a fresco painting of St. Sisinus which dates from the 8th to the 11th centuries, and a fourth-century sanctuary. The top tier of San Clemente contains a 12th century sanctuary decorated with stunningly intricate mosaics.

Culture

On the first Sunday of the month, archaeological sites, monuments and museums can be enjoyed for free, making this the perfect time to immerse yourself in culture.

On the last Sunday of the month between 9am and 2pm, visitors can view the enormous art collection of the Vatican Museums for free. This includes the iconic Sistine Chapel. The last admission is always at 12.30pm, so make sure to arrive early.

The Gallery of the National Academy of San Luca, dating from the 16th century, gives visitors the opportunity to view artworks by academy members including the famous baroque artist Guido Reni, all completely free.

The Museo Storico della Liberazione (Historic Museum of the Liberation of Rome) is free to visit too, and a must see for history enthusiasts. During World War 2 the structure was a command post for the German SS, but today it is a museum focusing on the Nazi occupation of Rome. The graffiti by imprisoned members of the Roman Resistance is particularly fascinating.

At the Numismatic Museum of the Italian Mint, you can view a collection of over 20,000 artefacts and learn all about historic and current moneymaking methods. A free entry pass is available when you show your ID.

The major galleries and museums of Rome are always offering special deals, which change frequently throughout the year. Make sure to check with the specific museum you want to visit to find out if they have any current special offers to help you save money.

Families

Park Gianicolo, located on Janiculum Hill, is a great family destination and a wonderful spot for enjoying extensive views across Rome. There are also many activities to enjoy here. One of the most popular is the free daily puppet show at the Teatro Verde. This charming European tradition delights children from across the world, as the adventures of the puppets can be enjoyed regardless of language.

Children will enjoy seeing Rome’s only pyramid, which can easily be reached by metro as it has its own stop, named Piramide. The huge, well-preserved ancient building stands at 87 feet tall and was constructed in 12 BC to contain the final resting place of Caius Cestius, at a time when Egyptian styles were fashionable thanks to the influence of Cleopatra.

Animal lovers may wish to pay a visit to Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary, a unique place where cats run around and lounge amongst the ruined remains of four ancient Roman temples. In 44 BC, Julius Caesar was murdered by Brutus close to this location, making the area an important spot in Roman history. Long distance adoptions and donations are welcome from visitors who wish to contribute towards the cats’ upkeep.

The gardens of the Villa Borghese are amongst the most stunning gardens in the city, and make a perfect spot for a picnic or for families to relax, rest or explore their surroundings. Villa Sciarra is great for children as it has a playground and an aviary filled with beautiful exotic birds – make sure to bring some bread to feed them. This is also the location of the Galleria Borghese; admission is free on the first Sunday of the month.

Villa Ada offers a selection of free activities for kids, provided by organisations including the World Wildlife Fund. There is also a roller skating track, merry-go-round and playground where children can let off some steam.

For older children, Santa Maria della Concezione makes a fascinating and educational spot to visit. Underneath the church is the crypt of Capuchin friars, where the ceilings and walls are adorned with the bones of over 4,000 monks, some of them dating back to 1631.

To enjoy some natural beauty, head to the Caffarella valley, which stretches from the centre of the city to the south. When you go on a stroll through this expanse of picturesque fields, you can meet anyone from fashionable city Romans to sheep herders. You will also come across the ruins of temples and houses, and sites where ancient rituals once took place. One of the most well-preserved ruins is a temple honouring the nymph Egeria; according to legend, she still dwells here. Children are sure to be fascinated by the history and beauty of this unique area.

The benedizione animali, or blessing of the animals, is an ancient tradition which has been taking place since the 8th century. During this ceremony, Romans bring their pets to receive a blessing from a priest. It happens at the Church of Saint Eusebio on or around the 17th of January each year, and all kinds of pets are welcomed, from dogs and cats to lizards and even fish. In March, another unusual tradition takes place: the blessing of the cars, which happens at the Santa Francesca Romana Church in March, close to the Colosseum.

Food and Drink

Hostaria Romana is famous for its delicious antipasti. It also provides diners with free grappa and cookies, and free limoncello to enjoy after dinner.

Many hotels and restaurants offer free appetisers to accompany drinks during happy hour. These include popular local spots such as the bar at the Ludovisi Palace Hotel and Enoteca Ferrara.

Outdoors

Piazza di Spagna is one Rome’s most famous city squares, and is the home of the beautiful Fontana della Barcaccia, or Fountain of the Boat, created by Pietro and Gian Lorenzo Bernini. There are some excellent shops around the square, perfect for browsing and window shopping. The famous English poet John Keats once lived here; in fact, he died in his apartment looking over the square in 1821, and the former residence is now a museum dedicated to his life and works.

The Fontana di Trevi, or Trevi Fountain, is probably the most iconic and well-known fountain in the whole of Rome. The huge, intricate fountain was constructed in 1762 in the baroque style and features a unique combination of architecture, sculpture and nature. According to legend, if you throw a coin into the water over your shoulder, you will come back to Rome one day.

Piazza Navona was during Roman Empire the setting for naval battles representations , known as “Naumachie”, but then became the home of one of Rome’s biggest markets. Since then, the market has relocated to Campo de Fiori, but Piazza Navona remains a lively and vibrant spot which is frequently the setting for major events, parades, fairs and other occasions. The square is also home to a wealth of famous artworks. These include the Fountain of the Four Rivers, designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, with four figures representing the Danube, the Nile, the Rio de la Plata and the Ganges. The square features two other impressive fountains, which were created by Giacomo della Porta: the Fontana del Moro and Fontana di Nettuno. The square is also the location of the Sant’Agnese in Agone Church, an amazing example of baroque architecture, created by the architects Rainaldi and Borromini in the 17th century.

The Campo de’ Fiori is renowned for its morning market, where shoppers can purchase flowers and vegetables. It is also a popular night time gathering place thanks to its various bars and restaurants. The name means “field of flowers”; this dates from the middle ages, when the square was a flower-filled meadow.

A walk through Trastevere, a fashionable neighbourhood of the city, offers a real taste of Roman history. With its narrow, winding streets and many open squares, the neighbourhood takes visitors back to the ancient Roman and medieval eras. Trastevere used to be home to many merchants, fishermen and artisans, and is renowned for its huge, elaborate villas and stunning gardens, which were once the property of Julius Caesar. There is a vibrant nightlife scene in this area.

From 7pm every evening, Angel Tours, an Irish-owned tour company, provides a small group tour of the Pantheon. To join in, simply head to the Pantheon and look for a guide holding an umbrella with an angel motif on it. However, booking is required for large groups. The tour lasts for half an hour and is free, although you may wish to tip your guide. On Sundays, the Pantheon closes at 6pm, so the tour is restricted to exploring the outside of the building.

Theatre and Music

In September, the International Urban Theater Festival takes place throughout the city. You will have the chance to witness musical, theatrical and dance events and performances all across Rome, which makes for an exciting and spontaneous atmosphere.

The main festival in the city during the summer is Estate Romana, which is focused on outdoor performance, including film, art, dance and music. From watching a play among the historic ruins at Ostia Antica, to taking in a blues concert while sitting on the steps outside a palazzo, there is a diverse range of events to enjoy in many locations throughout Rome. Many of the events are completely free.

During the Feast of the Assumption, which takes place on the 15th of August each year, the Gran Ballo di Ferragosto transforms the entire city into a stage. Professional dancers perform in the piazzas, and each square showcases a different type of dance, including ballroom, tango and hip hop, to name just a few. Spectators are encouraged to join in!

Throughout the summer at the Roman Forum, you can take in a free public performance by the Miracle Players theatre troupe. They are renowned for their original and hilarious plays, and have been recognised by the Italian Ministry of Culture for the quality of their work. Performances are in English, so you do not need to worry about the language barrier.